Anyway, so I had in mind that I wanted an American BBQ experience, and had honed in on a place called Decker BBQ. It was also close to an Aussie sports bar (Boomarang), and close to Chinatown, where I planned to explore and do some shopping. So I ended up picking a hotel in the area called Studio M. You can read my reviews on the Trip Advisor page, a link to which is on the homepage here. But I want to talk about a couple of very contrasting Singapore experiences, which I think provides a poignant reflection on the cultural situation on the island nation as a whole. At least in my experience.
So below is a photo of the "loft" hotel room at Studio M. Shame on you booking.com, I had no idea I had actually booked this style of room - it wasn't mentioned on the front page, and frankly, on the second page when 80,000 options are presented, I just go for the cheapest and go ok - I have already made up my mind at this point, so the extra step is meaningless to me. Alas in this instance, I should have looked a bit more closely, because the loft experience was, frankly, shithouse.
image from milleniumhotels.com
Just to point out the key issue to me is that the toilet is so small that anyone who is a little on the bigger side or has any kind of disability, would seriously struggle. Add to that the fact that the fucking toilet door is a weapon and slams shut when let go, I seriously hated it. The bathroom is not much better. You have to get in, close the door, turn the shower head to the wall, and then turn it on, to avoid getting sprayed with cold water immediately while it warms up.
Then there's the curtains. To open and close them you have to walk along your mattress. Ok, it can be done, but is it a logical method? To me no. So everything about this fucking loft room is loft first, and lets fit everything else in as best we can. What do I say to that? Fuck you. I won't be back. Funky is good, but that's not why I choose a hotel room.
So Studio M can be written off the list for me, but it's kind of symptomatic of modern Singapore. We need to be hip, upbeat, super modern, and techno-jizzed up. That all comes with a price, and for most of the modern areas of Sing, well bring your bloody credit card. Hey that reminds me, there are no fucking ATM's within cooee of Studio M. What a pain in the arse. I know the modern world is moving away from cash, but newsflash motherfuckers - we're not there yet!
image from thefinder.com.sg
That next photo is a street shot from Chinatown, a quick 10 minutes walk from hipster-ville. Sorry, I know it's not great quality, but I couldn't be bothered uploading more shots from my phone (I wanted to write this tidbit while it was still fresh in my addled mind). It conveys the message anyway. And that message is, character, a bit of old-school and something that conveys an image of Singapore's roots. I love the variety, the colour, the individuality, the familiarity with times gone by. Hey I know the world is moving on, I know cities are growing and modern. I know Singapore is a blend of east and west and one of the pinnacles of development in SE Asia, but still, it's where you still see the blend of the old and the new that I believe it delivers its real charm. And Chinatown is a place where this still happens. That is, I believe, why it is so popular with tourists. I love wandering the streets, seeing all the different foods on offer, the quirky bars, the fabric shops, the tailors where they chase you down the street looking for your custom, the clothes, the toys, you name it. It's a great experience.
Further to all the above, below is a shot of the Chinatown Point mall. I went there for two reasons. Firstly, the Singapore Mint has a shop there. And yep, they have some absolutely beautiful gold and silver pieces. But FARK, the prices are unbelievable. I expect to pay somewhat of a premium, particularly for numismatics as opposed to straight bullion, but what was being asked for here was ridiculous - 5-10 x the spot price for silver anyway. Too much, way too much. Regardless, I enjoyed wandering the aisles and loved seeing so many beautiful pieces in person. Secondly, there was an LCS there too - a local coin shop. But the silly bastard running it only opens at 11.30am, which was when I went for lunch. When I returned at noon he was on a break. Now seriously, who TF does that? So I ended up leaving the mall without making a purchase. I ended up finding a LCS on the way back to Robertson Quay - a really nondescript joint, but so much cheaper and old-school than the mint shop, so I grabbed a couple of things, and loved the experience there. I'll post on it elsewhere.
image from dreamstime.com
So there we go, my tale of two Singapores. One part, clinging onto its roots, a beautiful and comforting blend of the old and the new - a reality present in many Asian cities, Hong Kong being a prime example. I don't apologise for my stance. I admit I am trying to channel some of the 80's when I visit either HK or Sing, as that was my contemporary period in both places, so in Sing at least, Chinatown provides that contrast, that blend of modernity along with a flashback to the past. The other part, modern to the nth degree, pushing boundaries in an attempt to stand out and grab a greater share of the hipster market. Yeah it's cool, but it ain't me. I do like Singapore, but next time I'm going to find a hotel in Chinatown, and stay there. I can travel to my Aussie sportsbars if needs be, but otherwise I'll be content to wander the side-streets, look for interesting and tasty local foods, check out quirky stores, and enjoy that feeling of nostalgia, mixed with the comfort that modern Singapore provides. It's a truly remarkable country, I just hope it digs in and holds onto its roots, in favour of developing everything.
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